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The only guide to skin care you need
We know more about how to care for our skin than ever before, but with a dizzying array of science-based options out there all vying for a spot on our bathroom counter, things can get overwhelming fast.
If you’ve ever bailed out on a shopping cart full of serums, moisturizers, exfoliants, and creams in a state of skin care routine overload, this guide is for you.
Pro-tip: Keep it simple — and smart. Skip trying to maintain a 10-step routine every day and break down your regimen into daily, weekly and monthly tasks.
What to do every day
- Cleanse every night
Your skin may be fine with skipping an AM wash, or sticking to just water or a very quick wipe with cleansing (aka micellar) water. But when it comes to your PM routine, cleaning off the slurry of makeup, sunscreen, dirt, oil and bacteria teeming in your pores is a must.
Cleansing tip: David Lortscher, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Curology, is in favor of micellar water: “It cleanses, removes makeup and moisturizes in one step by using tiny molecules — micelles — that pull the dirt and oil out of your skin.” Follow that step up with a gentle cleanser.
If you rather double-cleanse (without micellar water), use an oil-based cleanser to break down makeup and sunscreen, followed by a foaming cleanser. If your skin does not tolerate foaming cleansers, then use a gentle non-foaming product. This is a thorough but super gentle way to cleanse everything off your skin without stripping it.
Popular everyday cleansers
- Gentle soap cleansers:Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanseror Cosrx Low PH Good Morning Gel Cleanser
- Micellar water:Garnier SkinActive Micellar Cleansing Wateror La Roche-Posay Micellar Cleansing Water for Sensitive Skin
- Oil cleanser:DHC Deep Cleansing Oil
- Wear sunscreen
Yes, we’ve all heard the warnings and are still tempted to zip out for errands sans sunscreen, or to dodge that familiar greasy, heavy feeling — but sun damage goes far beyond just a tan: UV radiation is behind photoaging, inflammation, and skin cancer.
Lortscher estimates that damage from UV is responsible for “up to 80 percent of skin aging” and recommends a minimum of SPF 30 UVA and UVB protection daily.
SPF tip: Use a stand-alone sunscreen. Even if your daily moisturizer or makeup has a stated SPF, keep in mind that SPF rating is based off a volume of sunscreen that’s far more than people think — 2 milligrams (mg) per square centimeter (cm) of skin to be exact. That’s 1/4 teaspoon on average.
Imagine using up an entire bottle of foundation in less than four weeks — that’s how much you’d need to be protected!
YOU CAN’T ADD UP SPF-Keep in mind that even if you’re wearing multiple products with SPF, you can’t “add up” the SPFs to equal 30. You need to make sure that one of the products is SPF 30 on its own.
- Skip a step, if you can
Don’t feel like you have to slather on everything every day. Instead, focus on what your skin needs. Does it need a moisturizer to fight dryness? Or is it dehydrated? Are you using a prescription that needs to be applied daily?
Your skin’s needs may change wildly due to climate, season, weather, and age. If you wake up on a humid day and can’t bear the thought of applying your usual rich moisturizer, skip it! Don’t feel like you have to do the same thing every day — your regimen should be enjoyable and relaxing.
Tip: The best routine is a doable one. Once you’ve taken care of the basics, it’s OK to stop there, or add steps and products if you feel like it.
You can pamper your winter-dry skin with an overnight sleeping pack, soothe summer skin with a refreshing sheet mask, or simply crawl into bed with just-cleansed skin if you’re not feeling up to a full routine.
But you don’t have to do it all, every day.
What to do every week
- Exfoliate with restraint
Not everyone needs to exfoliate their skin, but even with regular cleansing, layers of dead skin can build up on the surface, leaving your face feeling grimy, rough, or dull.
Exfoliating once a week can help your skin look and feel smoother, brighter and will reduce the likelihood of clogged pores.
BEWARE OF MANUAL EXFOLIANTS (AKA SCRUBS)Scrubs featuring rough or sharp particles can cause microtears in the skin. Scrubs can also worsen acne, Lortscher explains, as the “friction from aggressive scrubbing will backfire. This causes irritation, and irritation leads to more acne.”
Instead of a scrub, consider a chemical exfoliant, such as an AHA or BHA. These dislodge excess dead skin, allowing it to be gently wiped away.
Pro-tip: Daily or weekly, not both. Some AHA/BHA chemical exfoliants are designed to be used daily. If you’re already using a daily exfoliant, you may want to avoid a more intense once-weekly exfoliation, as your skin will already be more sensitive. If not, your skin might benefit from a weekly exfoliant to slough off dead skin.
- De-clog your pores
Check out the state of your pores: Is your nose teeming with blackheads and sebaceous filaments? Even though you shouldn’t try to extract them yourself, congested pores are annoying at best and inviting acne at worst.
A purifying face mask, such as a clay- or charcoal-based mask, or gentle oil massage may help to loosen clogs and minimize the appearance of your pores. Just don’t pick at your skin!
What should be done once a month
- Check your expiry dates
From face masks to serums, you may not use up products before they expire. Once a month, check the expiration dates of your products for anything due to be tossed.
Even though the sweltering humidity may have you skipping your richer moisturizers, leftovers don’t mean it’s still good to use — especially if it’s a product you scoop out with your fingers. This method could possibly introduce bacteria or contaminants, allowing them to thrive in the jar. Consider discarding these products after six months.
- Skin self-check
Lortscher recommends a monthly skin self-exam to identify any spots that might need the attention of a dermatologist. Learn how to do a thorough self-exam to detect skin cancer from the American Academy of Dermatology.
What you should leave to the professionals
- Chemical peels
Daily chemical exfoliation is one thing, but full-on chemical peels aren’t something you should be trying at home. Did you know that glycolic acid, one of the most commonly used alpha-hydroxy acid exfoliants causes increased photosensitivity that can last up to a week even at a low daily concentration?
Considering the high concentrations and increased risk of damage with chemical peels, peels are best done in the office of a professional who can guide you through post-peel care and precautions.
- Squeezing and popping clogged pores
We’ve all been there — you wake up the morning before a big event and you’ve got an unwelcome blemish waving at you from every reflective surface.
As tempting as it may be to squeeze that zit to oblivion — don’t! See your dermatologist for something that will usually shrink this within 36 hours — an injection of a dilute cortisone medication called Kenalog right into the cyst will do the trick.
Same with extractions
Those eye-catching blackheads and bumpy whiteheads that show as moguls under makeup may look ripe for emptying. But restrain yourself from going on a search-and-destroy mission! Extractions are something best done by a professional.
- Skin diagnosis and treatment
As inviting as it is to look for solutions to serious skin troubles in over-the-counter products and popular remedies, self-diagnosis and DIY treatment can be frustrating at best. At worst, you may actually damage your skin.
“In the case of mild acne, over-the-counter medications along with esthetician treatments may be sufficient,” says Lortscher, but for “more inflamed, extensive, or unresponsive acne, prescription medications are usually indicated and can only be obtained from a dermatologist or other licensed medical provider.”
